User Posts: Hobby Laser Cutters
Today, we will take a quick look at the Enjoywood M4, galvo laser engraver. This machine is identical to the Atomstack M4 laser marking machine, and we are ...
Hobby Laser Cutters
ComMarker B4 Laser Engraver Is an Affordable 20W Fiber Laser With Outstanding Performance!
Just a few years ago, a fiber laser engraver was something that cost tens of thousands of dollars and only just big companies could afford these wonderful ...
If your laser cutting demands are bigger than what the diode lasers can give you, you are probably looking to buy a more powerful CO2 laser cutter. During your ...
A laser engraver is a handy tool to have around whether you're a hobbyist, small business owner, or DIY-er. They allow you to create custom engraved products ...
When it comes to laser engravers, there are a lot of different options on the market. You can find machines that range in price from a few hundred dollars up ...
Instead of emitting blue light like most diode laser engravers, the xTool Infrared laser module emits the invisible infrared light. Infrared light has ...
As a proud owner of a laser engraver, you should know that an enclosure is an important part of using your equipment safely and effectively. Enclosures help ...
If you're a hobbyist, craft business owner, DIY enthusiast, or aircraft model maker, then you know that laser cutting is a popular and efficient way to create ...
Compared to other diode laser engravers, the Twotrees TS3 is a little different. They took a different design route with its enclosed design and they have made ...
Is The xTool D1 PRO Really The BEST Laser Cutter/Engraver Machine? We Put It to the TEST! (Review)
The Makeblock xTool D1 Pro 20W laser engraver is a state-of the art do-it-all laser engraver that can tackle any task you throw at it! In this article we have ...
You can check both reviews and compare the cutting results. We test all machines the same way, so you can directly compare the results between them.
I personally prefer Sculpfun.
I don’t think there is a rotary option.
You will not be disappointed. You will have a lot of fun with this machine!
You can download the test files with all the settings:
https://hobbylasercutters.com/download-test-files/
Otherwise, I think it was around 30% power.
You should check the wiring. It could be electrical issue.
Rubber can be cut, but it stinks. Black EVA foam cuts nicely. Colored ones, slightly worse.
Ortur for better mechanics, Comgrow for better price.
Hi, I have used it from 20kHz to 100kHz, but I don’t have a way to measure the frequency. The results from 20kHz to 30kHz and from 60kHz to 100kHz don’t look much different, I don’t know if this is due to the frequency range being limited or it is just physics. Mine was the pre-production prototype. It should have same or worse performance to the production units.
Yes, I have also mentioned this in the review. It is the same as xTool infrared module.
What do you mean by power bar?
Thanks for noticing! They advertise it as 400mm. I will need to measure it to see the real area.
Hi, thanks for reading!
All cutting tests are done at 100% power.
It depends on what type of plywood do you have. Some plywoods are very difficult to cut. We recommend Poplar or Birch plywood.
All of the machine should be OK for your use. You just need to clean lenses regularly.
Sculpfun S30 Pro has a replacable lens which is great for longevity. The xTool D1 has a bit more durable mechanics.
Send me an email
It can’t be interchanged directly. Maybe with some rewiring of the connectors.
Thanks!
It really depends on your preference. Sculpfun has more features for the money, but the xTool has better mechanics and should last longer in theory. Both are good machines.
All cutting is done at 100% power.
I think it is worth the extra!
Its mostly trial and error. For metals usually full power. Every material is different. The best is to try for yourself and see what happens. My settings are not perfect.
https://hobbylasercutters.com/download-test-files/
Sorry, not very soon.
The wobbly line is due to the mounting system on our machine being an early version. I think it is not as concerning as these are pictures made with a microscope, these are very minimal vibrations due to relatively high speed used in that test. Vibrations are small enough that will not be seen when engraving wood.
Automatic air assist is nice if you want to do engraving job and jutting job in one go. You enable air assist only for cutting and you will not need to stand near the machine waiting to turn on the air assist.
Hi,
Number of passes needed depend on a set speed. More passes at higher speed usually leave a cleaner cut compared to going very slow and cutting through in only one pass.
You find out the needed number of passes by testing the material. You take a sample of the material and try to cut out a circle. You tweak the setting (speed/number of passes) until it cuts through reliably. Each material is different and needs some testing before cutting the project out of it.
Hey!
You made me wondering and I went out and tried it. With the xTool RA2 Pro you also get a wiring adapter which fits Sculpfun and Atomstack laser engravers! I have also updated the xTool RA2 article with this new information.
It is all mentioned in the articles.
Usually 600mm/min and full power.
Hi, You can compare the machines by yourself, you need to read through both reviews and decide which one is best for your needs.
I might do one blog post on the topic of best machines and list pros and cons on what we think are the best features.
But there is no best machine for everything. If one machine has some special function that makes it great for what you need, then its the best for you, regardless of its performance.
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Read our S10 review too and see the differences: https://hobbylasercutters.com/sculpfun-s10/
Awesome! I share similar experience with the A5 Pro
HI,
1.) The included stainless steel plate is about 1mm thick, so no worried 🙂
2.) With this test, you see how closely do you need to set the Fill lines when filling the shapes so it looks nice. IF you space them too far apart, you will see the individual lines, if they are too tightly together, then the engraving time is unnecessarily extended by a lot.
The display only comes with the Pro version.
Thanks for finding the issue. The link is now updated. It should work now.
It needs to be connected to the PC
Thank you for visiting!
Hi, I have just updated the coupon list: https://hobbylasercutters.com/coupons/
S10 is a great value for money!
Hi,
Did you also check our Sculpfun S9 review?
https://hobbylasercutters.com/sculpfun-s9/
You can also compare some cutting performance between these two machines in this article:
https://hobbylasercutters.com/air-assist-comparison/
The S10 is twice as powerful. This means that it will be able to cut and engrave faster. And it also has an improved x-axis rail system, which means that it is more precise too. Choosing one will depend on your specific needs. But both are very good engravers.
We also have some discount codes for these two machines, valid only until the end of this month, if you want to save some money:
https://hobbylasercutters.com/coupons/
Hi, the upgrade kit is available in their official store: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEKB2eb
We will!
Thanks! We might review another one in the future.
Hi, You can now get the air assist for the S9 laser:
EU version: https://hobbylasercutters.com/go/sculpfun-air-assist-eu/
US version: https://hobbylasercutters.com/go/sculpfun-air-assist-us/
We are testing it right now and it works very well!
All these air assists are turned on manually with a switch on the pump. There is no software control for it.
All other 5W lasers were unable to engrave stainless. The S10 is much better since it has double the power. 5W is usually just at the border of being capable of engraving stainless.
I don’t think RDWorks works with GRBL machines.
A10 only exists as Pro.
1.)I think it is the a4988 driver. With some tinkering and programming I think you could put in the Trinamic drivers for more precision
2.)I don’t know about this
3.) you would need to modify the firmware. Without the source code this is impossible
4.)It does not support wifi
I don’t have much experience with MDF, but it takes more power to cut it compared to plywood. I think 10mm MDF is a bit too thick for the S9. Maybe try even faster speed with more passes or try making an an air assist which will blow some dust away. I think some people made designs for S9 air assist.
It should be compatible with other open frame brands. They say it is compatible with Sculpfun, Atomstack, ORTUR, NEJE, Twotress.
Hi, The S10 is double diode laser.
That paragraph about the Sculpfun S9 is meant to say about the S9. We have rephrased it to make it a little bit more clear.
Thanks!
Hi,
You can purchase the Neje 3S Max and add the extension kit YC1150 1150mm:
https://bit.ly/3zns2hb
You will get area of 1150mmx860mm (45×33 inch)
Hi, Did you try cleaning the lens with a q-tip and Isopropyl alcohol? Cleaning the lens helps a lot.
You can see how to clean it near the end of this video. https://youtu.be/iUTRLMqlYX4
You would need to invert the image if a engraved surface becomes lighter colored than the non engraved.
You can’t cut white or transparent materials.You can only engrave it if you paint the surface black before engraving. White reflects the light and this is why it does not work. You should try with black/green/red/yellow and it should work.
Haven’t tried nylon yet, but I think it can cut it if it is dark color.
Thank you for your input! Glad to see you made a good decision!
Thanks! Yeah I remember the early days of 3D printing. I made my first 3D printer 10+ years ago and spent 1k$ for assembly materials and motors and heads… And everybody was looking at my printer as a 8th wonder of the world. Nobody was familiar with 3D printing. I still have it but it prints way worse compared to a 150$ 3D printer now 🙂
Probably they will soon have their own air assist system made for their machines. Possibly you could modify an existing assist for another brand, but I don’t think you really need an air assist for the S9 as it is capable cutter by itself.
There will always be a better machine as this field is developing very quickly as every few months a new and better machine is introduced which features new tech.
We will try to keep up with our reviews as fast as we can 🙂
We will definitely test some powerful lasers when they come out!
Did you check that the connector on the motor that moves that axis did not disconnect by accident?
There is adjustment. It is also stated in the instructions. The bottom wheel has a hex nut on one side, that nut is eccentrically mounted and spinning it, changes the tension by moving the wheel slightly up or down. Use the included spanner/wrench to rotate it until the loose play is gone.
There could be a slight chance that the power supply might be a problem?
Sculpfun does not have an official air assist yet. All of the available are after-market/third party kits. We will test one in the following months.
This is some very fine text. I am not sure it would come out cleanly. I would say 1mm text is the smallest you can go.
I rather use speed around 600mm/min and full power for cutting and then go with multiple passes, rather than going slower and do a single pass. Multiple passes at higher speed leave much cleaner and less charred edge.
You should use Poplar plywood. This cuts the easiest.
Check the technical review, it will help you figure it out a bit
https://hobbylasercutters.com/sculpfun-s9/
try 600mm/min, 100% power and several passes.
Did you check the technical review?
https://hobbylasercutters.com/sculpfun-s9/
Usually all the dual diode modules have larger beam sizes than standard 5W modules. I think it has something to do with the challenges of focusing the two light sources together. It is a flagship because it is very well built and has the most features. The fact that the beam is perfect square is very important. This helps A LOT when cutting wooden boxes with tight fitting joints. Otherwise parts cut vertically and horizontally don’t fit together.
With 10W machines, I engrave the test pattern on anodized aluminium with 50% power so the light output should be about the same as running 5W machine at 100% power.
The absolute limit is 5000mm/min, but the practical limit is around 3000mm/min
Thanks!
Good catch. When I got the machine it was advertised as 15W and somewhere as 10W.
Whoops, I forgot to add it. Its fixed now.
Yes, S9 is safe to look for a short moment without glasses. It has a good light shield.
Hi,
It has much nicer mechanics and an offline controller. I haven’t tried engraving on stainless with it yet.
As for the performance comparison, you should compare it with our Sculpfun S9 review article.
Running at 100% will probably not affect the life span of the laser significantly, unless you use it A LOT.
You can probably engrave most of this things with only 90%, but you need to go slower. Our power and speed settings are not ideal and can be improved significantly with some more experimenting.
This is strange. On what layer does this happen? You can correct the values by hand to the correct one by even looking at the test file text next to the pattern.
It is measured in the interval test within anodized aluminium test pattern. Its 0.15mm times 0.15mm square
I haven’t tested the A5 Pro+, but I suppose it is a bit better than the A5.
If I would be choosing I would choose the Sculpfun S9, because it is truly a very good machine. And I like their light shielding around the module much better. With Atomstack it is very difficult to see where it will start engraving and it is impossible to lower the module a few milimeters lower than optimal(due to the design of the heatsink, which sits very low above the working surface) when you want to cut thicker stuff. I find this very useful to do with the S9.
We also have a fresh discount coupon for the S9 at the end of the article (price with coupon is 299$). We would appreciate if you buy by clicking through the link in the article, this way you help us to run the website, get more machines for testing and pay our web hosting at no extra cost to you.
Both should be OK.
You can get it through the links at the end of the post. If you order at Banggood, there will be no import costs as the Banggood sends it with taxes and customs already pre-paid. You only pay the list price and shipping. No extra costs at your border.
But I would recommend you getting the much more capable Sculpfun S9, I have a great coupon code for it(till the end of the month), and you can get it for only 299$ if you use my code at the end of the article:
https://hobbylasercutters.com/sculpfun-s9/
https://www.festi.info/boxes.py/
Just click to the drop-downs – boxes, boxes with flex and choose your variant.
https://hobbylasercutters.com/download-test-files/
Yes, The Sculpfun will release their own roller system in just a few days. We are already testing it and will publish an article when we finish.
Indeed, vinyl is bad for you and your machine!
Can’t say about the Comgrow as we haven’t tested it, but I know that the S9 is the currently best machine we have tested in the price range up to 450$.
Aluminium does not engrave directly but anodized aluminium works great.
You need to wait a couple of days so that the roller system becomes available. I will post link when it does.
Great tip!
Banggood ships from China, although they have some products in US stock aswell.
But I never had problems with them. The import taxes are handled by Banggood.
You can also buy from Amazon if you want to get it from US:
https://amzn.to/3HmVFAv
Cool!
Does your laser module have 3 pin connector?
Check the wires to the Y axis motor. It could be that the connector has a bad contact.
You should try to contact Sculpfun support. It could be that the tension of the belts or the rollers is too high but it can also be an electrical issue.
Try to remove the belt. If movement is still stiff, adjust the eccentric nut under one of the rollers and release some tension.
I will test the Atomstack m50 soon, so I will have all three tested and we will see which one is the best.
Anodized aluminium at 600mm/min, stainless at 100mm/min. Both at full power.
Cool!
I use full power for all cutting jobs.
Hi,
I am planning to test the xtool soon, so we will see how good it is 🙂
I am having some problems with the email system. I sent you the files via email.
For this laser I didn’t make the full video featuring all the tests, but I made a video featuring some cool projects I made with the S9. It is also on this website under the tab Projects and Ideas.
If you want to buy, you have the purchase link at the end of this post.
On this website you can also find an article of the Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro. You can directly compare the results:
https://hobbylasercutters.com/ortur-laser-master-2-pro/
Hi, In this extended article you will be able to download the .dxf file for my drill bit box:
https://www.instructables.com/Laser-Cut-Drill-Bit-Organizer-With-CNC-Routed-Dril/
But if it still comes out too small, you probably have the units wrong in the software. Maybe try metric units.
You should check the belt tension and adjust the rollers.
Lightburn is completely user friendly program. You don’t need to know gcode.
It should work, but I can’t be 100% because I haven’t tried it.
The S9 does not have limit switches currently. But it might soon get updated and get them.
I don’t use air assist, but I am planning to make it.
Thanks!
I really haven’t tried MDF yet, but it should cut it without problems. I have seen many people cut MDF with weaker lasers.
https://www.banggood.com/custlink/m3KRNhuYw7
Sure! Just buy the separate S9 laser head.
Thank you!
We plan to test rotary accessories soon!
Sculpfun S9
Cutting leather should not be a problem. Although, the edge would most probably be black.
Thanks! Air assist will be tested soon!
Diode lasers work differently than CO2 lasers. Diode laser emits visible light. So anything that looks transparent to you or very white in color will not be ready to cut because light reflects of white surfaces and passes through transparent materials. CO2 lasers work in IR spectrum which is basically heat. This is why it is absorbed by almost any material.
Blue acrylic does not work because it is the same color as laser light – it reflects blue light.
You can cut yellow, red and green and similar colors. But the lighter the color, more passes are needed. Yellow takes twice as many passes as black.
Never tried opaque.
The cutting performance depends on the wood type. The best wood for laser cutting is Poplar wood which is soft and cuts well. 95% of things you see laser cut is made from this wood.
No, sadly it needs USB. Anything via wireless would be unreliable. You can try with active USB extension cable (5m, 10m length), but not having a computer nearby will make the machine very difficult to use. You need a screen and keyboard next to the machine so you can see what you are doing.
No. None of these machines can cut transparent or blue acrylic. They can cut black, yellow, red, green.. but lighter the color, more passes it needs to cut through.
Thanks! you can add yourself by filling the form below the homepage.
This tutorial will help you to setup the machine in Lightburn (or LaserGRBL – here is tutorial for both programs):
https://gzhls.at/blob/ldb/f/b/e/c/5c238a8e46a7541a755e8ab8326381fef7dd.pdf
The tutorial is for Atomstack, but it is the same setup for Sculpfun.
This tutorial will help you to setup the machine in Lightburn (or LaserGRBL – here is tutorial for both programs):
https://gzhls.at/blob/ldb/f/b/e/c/5c238a8e46a7541a755e8ab8326381fef7dd.pdf
The tutorial is for Atomstack, but it is the same setup for Sculpfun.
No, it is the standard controller, very similar to the Atomstack. But it works just fine.
You can subscribe to newsletter by filling in the newsletter form below the page with your email.
Thanks!
Maybe I will make it. I need to figure out how to measure the performance difference between them. I use better OD6+ goggles which protect eyes way more than the included ones. I posted a link to that goggles in each review.
Ventilation is highly recommended. At least have some desk fan blowing air out of the window. Especially when cutting acrylic a lot of smell is produced.
Cool! I will make a video with roller setup as soon the Sculpfun releases it.
Thank you!
Thanks for visiting the site! You can expect the video most probably in December.
Hi, Thanks for watching!
The X7 pro will be tested soon 🙂 Subscribe to get notified!
Are they wavy just at 60% power? This is strange.
If they are always wavy, you should check the tension of the belts on both axis and the tension of the rollers (eccentric nut). Check the manual for the appropriate setup.
Hi, check https://hobbylasercutters.com/download-test-files/ for downloading the test file.
Hi,
Thanks for visiting my site.
You can download the file here:
https://hobbylasercutters.com/download-test-files/
Hi, I have added a form, so everyone can download the file:
https://hobbylasercutters.com/download-test-files/
Check your email!
Hi,
I have sent you the test file.
But it is not compatible with LaserGRBL as the Lightburn uses some parameters to set the power scale to specific shapes.
You can try it with free trial though.
Hi,
I have sent you the test file.
But it is not compatible with LaserGRBL as the Lightburn uses some parameters to set the power scale to specific shapes.
You can try it with free trial though.
Some “soot” is normal to accumulate on the inside. But you can wipe it off. You also should clean the lens with a cotton swab every now and then. It will improve the performance.
I sent you the lightburn file via email.
I will send it to you via email, as I can not attach it here.